Card games · Commerce group
Also Chinese 51, Wushiyi Fen, 51 Points
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51 Chinese is a card game won by holding five cards of one suit worth as close to 51 as possible, with the first to 500 points taking the match. Players swap cards from a shared discard pile or the stock, and calling before your hand is truly strong can be challenged and cost you everything.
51 Chinese uses a standard 52-card pack — no jokers unless your table adds them. Every card counts toward a hand's value by its own number:
Three or four players is where the game plays best, though two or five work too. Play passes to the right.
Shuffle and stack the pack face down. The starting player takes the top card, the player to their right the next, and so on one at a time, until the starter holds six cards and everyone else five. Pick a starter however you like for the first hand — drawing cards for high is the simplest way — and pass the job to the right after every deal, so everybody gets a fair run at it over a sitting.
The starter opens by laying one of their six cards face up next to the stock. From there, each player in turn picks one of four things to do:
Taking the layout and swapping one are only open when there are face-up cards to take. The table resets itself: once five discards have piled up face up, the next player to draw and discard sets those five aside face down, and their discard starts a fresh pile of one. You can only call on a turn where you have not just drawn or swapped into a hand under 51 — a call has to open your turn, not finish it. The one exception is the perfect hand: if a draw or a swap leaves you holding A-K-Q-J-10 of one suit, worth 51, once your turn is done, you may declare it at once and end the play.
Play ends the instant somebody calls, or when the stock runs out.
Only a hand that is five cards of one suit scores anything — everyone else takes zero for that deal.
A call under 51 is open to challenge: each other player in turn may challenge with their own flush, and the hands are compared. A challenger whose hand equals or beats the caller's wins; otherwise the caller wins. The winner scores the caller's hand plus every challenger's hand, and everyone else in the challenge scores 0. If two or more challengers tie for the best hand, the rules do not settle it — agree it before you play; the usual suggestion is that the last of them to challenge wins. A flush nobody challenges simply scores its own value, whether or not somebody else at the table was challenged that same hand.
SquareScores never deals or sees a card. Enter the hand's outcome into the sheet as one number per player once it's settled — your own cell is yours to fill in, or the host's to fix if you miss it — and the running total is the line the sheet is already keeping.
Alice, Ben, Cara and Dev are four to a table. Alice calls at 48 — an unclear count, since it's under 51 — and the table gets a chance to beat her. Ben passes. Cara challenges, showing a flush worth 50. Dev has no flush this deal.
Those four numbers go into the sheet as that deal's row, and the next hand deals straight into the same running totals.
The deals keep coming until somebody's total reaches 500 or more. At that point the game is over — tap End match, which is any player's to do, not just the dealer's or the leader's. Whoever has the highest total wins, and that is not always the player whose score just crossed the line: a late flush from somebody else can easily be sitting higher.
Every discard tells you a suit somebody doesn't need. Four or five cards of the same suit going past you in one sitting is a strong sign nobody at the table is chasing it, which makes it a safer suit to build toward yourself.
Calling early with 45 or 48 looks decisive, but it hands the whole table one look at beating you. The later in the hand you can hold out, and the higher you can push your count before calling, the fewer hands can realistically challenge you.
Swapping out all five face-up cards for five of your own says plainly that you want what was showing — which suit it was is now public, and anyone paying attention will remember next time you discard into a pile they're sitting on.
Every discard goes into the one shared pile, so there is no "somewhere else" for your suit's high cards to hide — if they keep going face down at the reset instead of coming back round to you, somebody is holding them. Switching your target costs you a turn or two, but holding a dead suit to the end costs you the whole hand.
A low call from the player on your left is an invitation. If your own flush is close, even a modest one, challenging it can double your score for the deal instead of settling for your own plain value.
A call is only as safe as the number of players likely to be sitting on a flush of their own. Early in a hand, before much swapping has happened, assume several of the table could still beat you; after a few rounds with no flush shown, fewer realistically can. Calling 44 early, while everyone's hand is still unformed, is a real risk; calling the same 44 once the table has traded through most of the stock with nothing to show is close to a free 44.
Many tables add two jokers to the pack before dealing. A joker stands in for whatever suit and rank its holder needs to complete a flush, and counts 10 points on its own. Some tables go further and play that, between two hands of otherwise equal value, the hand with no joker in it beats the hand that needed one — worth agreeing before the first challenge of the game, not during it.
Some tables refuse to let anyone call under 42, so a call always means a genuinely strong hand rather than a speculative low one thrown out to see who objects. It also makes the challenge rarer, since fewer calls are worth contesting.
The finish line of 500 is a convention, not a rule — tables shorten it to 300 for a quick sitting, or stretch it to 1,000 for a longer one that runs deep into a sitting. Agree the number before you deal the first hand, since changing it partway rewards whoever happens to be ahead when the idea comes up.
Some tables score four cards of the same rank, with any fifth card alongside them, as a clear count worth double the ordinary maximum: its holder takes 204, and everyone else at the table scores their own hand as usual. Like any clear count it cannot be challenged, and it can be declared at once.
The starting player gets six cards and everyone else gets five. The extra card is what lets the starter open the hand by discarding straight away.
No — you may call only when all five cards in your hand are of one suit. With a mixed hand, calling is not one of your options; draw or swap instead.
The hand ends there and is scored: anyone holding five cards of one suit scores their hand's value, and everyone else scores zero. Nobody has called, so there is nothing to challenge.
Yes, and both score it. Only a call under 51 is contested by challenge — an uncalled flush nobody challenges simply scores its own value alongside anybody else's.
No. Every suit scores the same way off the same card values, so a flush in clubs is worth exactly what the identical cards would be worth in any other suit.
102 is the most for a clear count — a called A-K-Q-J-10 of one suit, doubled. A challenge can go higher when two or more players challenge, since the winner takes the caller's hand and every challenger's. Tables playing the bomb variation can score 204 for four of a kind.
Because waiting is a risk too. The stock runs out eventually, and a hand that never calls can end the deal with nothing to show for it. Calling a strong but imperfect hand trades a sure, smaller score against the chance of being challenged and losing everything.